Lotus Esprit Turbo
Buyers
Guide
The Lotus
Esprit appears to have been with us for a long time, fighting
Italian mid-engined exotica for supercar supremacy from its base
in darkest Norfolk. Catch sight of an Esprit on the roads today
and the arresting silhouette still has enough drama and poise
to warrant a double-take. Impossibly low, fabulously sleek, beautifully
proportioned and clean, it looks like a low-flying missile locked
on to its target. Like the Porsche, the Lotus has been the subject
of constant development, but for us it was the Peter Stevens redesign
of 1987 that marked the Esprit's ascendancy to true superstardom.
Stevens softened
the edges of the sharply creased, wedgy Giugiaro original, endowing
it with a butch, muscular body, it's these cars, fitted with 4-cylinder
turbo powerplants, that now make the best buys second-hand and
therefore it's these that we will be focusing on here.
Of course,
for people like us the looks would count for nothing if they weren't
matched by equally stunning driving dynamics and stirring performance.
The Lotus reputation has been built on fiercely precise, incisive
handling with feelful steering combined with a compliant, supple
ride, and the Esprit certainly did its bit to enhance that reputation.
It doesn't have the nervous handling traits that have plagued
many mid-engined cars; instead it has an abundance of grip with
incredibly sharp turn-in and power oversteer that's so controllable
you just can't help indulging yourself. In this respect the Esprit
is brilliant, confidence-inspiring and intoxicating, urging you
to drive it hard. But it does have flaws. The turbos suffer from
lag, the engine note has uncharitably been likened to a cement
mixer full of rocks, the gearchange lacks precision and some aspects
of the interior have remained firmly in the '70s. The pedals are
offset and cramped; the trim rattles and creaks; the style is
definitely old-school. Whether you can live with that depends
on where your priorities lie.
Lotus Esprit
40th Anniversary (Federal Spec)
Lotus Esprit
40th Anniversary Interior
If you can
accept the shortcomings, the Esprit represents fantastic value
for money. An early Lotus Esprit Turbo in perfect condition can
cost just £10,000 and from a specialist dealer too. Rarely
does so little money by quite so much automotive theatre. But
buying the car is one thing; running it can be quite another.
Lotuses have in the past developed another, less desirable reputation,
one for poor reliability and big, big bills. You needn't be scared
- you just need to know what you're looking at and the possible
pitfalls. Treat it right and the Esprit can be reliable enough
to be used as daily transport. In fact it works better that way.
Like a lot of other high performance machinery, the Esprit responds
better to regular use than occasional outings - and ultimately
it will prove more economical per mile too. As we will see, some
of the servicing will require deep exploration of your wallet.
The simple fact is that although you may be able to buy an Esprit
Turbo for hot hatch money, this is no mass-produced tin-top and
parts are expensive. You can't shortcut the expense either. Fitting
substandard parts and delaying services will, in the long-term,
prove false economy, with expenditure spiralling higher to cover
even bigger problems further down the line. Buy the best you can
afford, but don't ignore the running costs.
Evolution
Not only did
the car change in 1987, but the name did too. Up until that time,
it was always known as the Turbo Esprit, but the two words were
reversed to mark the Peter Stevens redesign. Underneath, it was
essentially the same car. Boost was increased to add 5bhp to the
210 of the Giugiaro version, giving the Esprit Turbo a top speed
of 146mph. More importantly, the pensionable Citroen SM gearbox
was junked in favour of a Renault 25 unit, which, although criticised
today, seemed a big leap forward at the time. There was a short-run
special edition in '89, the 40th Anniversary model, which was
the last carburettor-equipped Esprit, and that made way for what
was to become the biggest selling variant, the Turbo SE. Its emissions-friendly
fuel injection system combined with a chargecooler (a water-to-air
intercooler) helped the 2.2-litre twin-cam 16-valve four to produce
264bhp, pushing the Esprit on to 164mph. Aside from the badges,
the SE could be identified by a fairly subtle rear wing, an oil-cooling
duct ahead of the front wheels, straight-line side-skirts and
larger, fatter wheels. Suspension geometry was slightly revised
to cope with these changes, but little adjustment was needed -
the chassis was already the Esprit's strength.
Checkpoints
Having decided
to take the plunge into Esprit ownership, you need to decide which
model to go for. With so many different versions, numbers of each
specification are low, so finding the ideal car may take some
time. Try to drive as many as you can and use every available
resource to swat up on your chosen subject. It's time well spent,
because the rewards can be very satisfying indeed. A full history
is absolutely vital, and ideally the car should come with a thick
wad of bills and receipts too. It's the only way to tell just
how meticulously the car has been maintained and how fresh the
main components are. Buying an Esprit without this information
is a complete folly - chances are you'll face a constant stream
of bills to keep the car on the road. The service history should
carry the stamps of either a main Lotus dealer or a recognised
independent specialist - your best guarantee that any work has
been done correctly and with proper parts. These specialists will
also have the correct equipment for checking the management system,
which although expensive is the only means of doing the job properly.
Every year saw improvements in terms of strength and longevity
of parts, so early SEs will require more TLC than an S4. And a
car that's had numerous owners should always raise doubts. Bad
cars cost a lot just to keep running, and restoring a rough one
can prove a financial nightmare.
Engine
The engines
themselves, as long as they are serviced regularly, are reliable
and strong, but there are some points to note. the first thing
to check here is that the cam belt has been replaced at the correct
intervals, because these intervals are very short. Originally
they were set at 24,000 miles, though they were extended by the
factory in the mid- '90s to 32,000. Most specialists, however,
recommend that you stick to the original schedule. Not having
it done could prove an expensive mistake. Owners should always
allow the engine plenty of time to warm through. Remember that
these are low-capacity, high-output engines and revving them from
cold will seriously reduce their potential lifespan. If cared
for, they can see the far side of 100,000 miles before needing
a rebuild. Specialist dealer Paul Matty says that he has seen
Esprits with 150,000 on the odometer, although he admits they
were breathing quite heavily by that stage. If the temperature
starts to rise, stop and let the engine cool before continuing
your journey. Fan failure is a common problem and, although it's
easy to fix, overheating will ruin the head gaskets and cause
the liners to sink. There is no excuse for allowing this to happen
though, as the facia has both a temperature gauge and fan failure
warning light. The chargecooler vanes have been known to disintegrate,
but there is no impact on other components and the replacement
cost is less than £100. Another SE problem regularly seen
in Lotus service bays is leaks from the water pumps used by the
chargecoolers. Again a fairly straightforward fault to put right,
but it pays to catch it early. The Turbos last well and if they
do fail an exchange unit can be fitted for less than £300.
If you smell petrol in the cabin then it's likely that all that's
needed are replacement hoses. The engine mounts should be examined
and replaced promptly if in poor condition - the ones on the left
side suffer most, and failure to replace them can damage other
items such as hoses and even the exhaust.
Transmission
Although the
Renault gearbox isn't the most satisfying to use, it is strong
and well up to the job in hand. Ensure that it doesn't feel stiff,
though, as a lack of lubrication will cause the shaft to rust
up, requiring the silencer to be dropped before it can be accessed.
Clutch replacement is an even more time-consuming task as the
gearbox needs to come out, taking around 11 hours. The clutch
should be replaced at the first sign of it slipping to prevent
further (more costly) damage to the flywheel.
Suspension
Very strong
and can easily run for 100,000 miles before the shocks need renewing.
Occasionally, small fracture-cracks on the front springs develop
- something that should be picked up during service.
Steering,
wheels and tyres
The combination
of large front wheels and a small rack means the the rack is put
under a lot of stress, resulting in wear. It therefore has to
be replaced every other year, but this can be done economically
with the installation of exchange unit. Excessive play in the
steering is a sure sign that it's on the way out, so test for
this on the test drive.
Exhaust
Examine the
exhaust and wastegate manifolds for cracks, which can be caused
by the constant expansion and contraction from the extreme temperatures
they reach during extended periods of hard running. The studs
can also get stuck in the manifold and these are very expensive
and complicated jobs to put right.
Brakes
The brakes
last well, considering the performance, and should feel strong.
As always, wear rates will vary considerably, but because the
car is relatively light it will resist wear and fade well enough
to survive a track-day outing. Ensure the handbrake ratchet operates
correctly; the fix is expensive
Bodywork/Interior
The electrical
systems, although complicated, rarely fail, but don't forget to
check that everything works - if there's a problem it may be awkward
to rectify. Non-functioning electric windows are often down to
failing switch rather than the motor, so always swap that (cheap)
part first. The headlight pods occasionally fail - when they do
the culprit is usually a short circuit caused by water ingress,
which will need to be dried out. The paintwork on some of the
older cars can show signs of cracking as the glassfibre ages,
and red paint can start to date to a pinkish hue. There is only
one way to solve both of these faults and that's a cash-intensive
respray. Underneath those panels there should be no problems as
the chassis is fully galvanised. If the car is not used for a
long period, the air conditioning system breaks up and needs to
be replaced, which will be very expensive. The simple solution
is to run the car for a while every other week or so.